Preparation for drag racing
By Ron Bauer

Simply put drag racing is you and your car racing against the clock down the quarter mile.  99% of the time until you get in the pro's you will be bracket racing.  Bracket racing is racing against a time that you set for yourself.  If you say you can run a 12.5 second quarter mile, you dial in (write that time on your windshield) and aim to get as closest to that time as possible without breaking out.  (Breaking out is when you go faster then your dial in time.)

When racing both cars most likely will have different dial in times.  Whomever comes closest to their time without breaking out is the winner.  As you can see you do not need to be fast to be successful in bracket racing, you need to be consistent which takes a lot of practice.

In bracket racing you will typically get 1-4 practice runs before elimination's start.  Once elimination's start you will need to dial in your car and the competition begins.  If you win you continue onto the next bracket, if you loss it is the end of the day for you unless they have a second chance lane.

Another form a drag racing is called Grudge racing or Street legal drags.  This is just for the fun of it racing, no dial in, no elimination's, just a good time to go out and have some fun and get 5-12 runs down the 1/4 mile in one night.

 
Ron in his white Talon at Woodburn Dragstrip

Requirements.

• The car must be in top mechanical shape.
• If you are 13.99 seconds or faster in the 1/4 mile you will need a SNELL 95 or newer helmet.  Check the track rules. (SNELL M or SA for both driver and passenger if allowed).
• If you are 11.99 seconds or faster then you already are experienced enough to know what additional equipment you need.  I.e. roll bar / cage...
• If you drive a Spyder (convertible) you will need a NHRA approved roll bar.
• A radiator overflow tank.  All newer cars came with this so you should have it unless you removed it.
• A battery hold down bracket.  All newer cars came with this so you should have it unless you removed it. If you can wiggle your battery then you don't have one.
• Closed toe shoes.  No sandals or birks.
• Long pants, no shorts.  Although bring then just in case you can wear them in the summer.
• You need 3 point seat belts like we all have.

Basically you should decide if you are going to run race gas of pump gas.  If pump gas then just leave the car the way it always is and just check the fluids to make sure they are all full.  Try and get to the track with about 1/4 tank of gas, but it doesn't really matter.  I've raced on a full tank of pump gas before just to see how slow the car was in it's heaviest state. More on race gas below.

Get to the track around 8 or 9am and pay at the gate, then go to tech. (If you don't see where tech is ask someone)

It varies from track to track but plan on $20 to race (usually $25 and up for special events) or $5 to $10 to spectate. Most all tracks have a Pro Shop and snack bar but you know how those are, $2 hotdogs etc.

Things to bring.

• Bring some white shoe polish or the likes (or borrow others if you don't plan on racing much) to write numbers on your car.
• Windex and some paper towels.  To change your dial in time and take the shoe polish off after the race.
• Sunscreen, as you will standing in the hot sun most of the time and the black pavement really reflects well.
• Something to drink and eat, unless you want to get raped by track food prices. (No glass containers.)
• Race gas (if you use it).

Optional recommended items to bring, most likely someone will have.

• Tire pressure gauge.
• Common wrench and socket sizes used (I.e. 10, 12, 14 mm).
• Screw drivers. (on 1G DSM cars you can remove the passenger head light for cold air intake)
• Extra engine oil.
• Timing light.

Things to do the night before drag racing.

• Check tire pressure.
• Check all fluids.
• Torque wheel lug nuts.

Notes about race gas:

• Race gas comes in two flavors.  Unleaded and leaded.
• Leaded race gas can be purchased with an octane rating as high as 118+ in some places.  Typically 110 - 114 will suffice. I f you have a catalytic converter on your car DO NOT use leaded race gas.
• If you run a test pipe and use leaded race gas you will notice through out the day your O2 reading will slow down until the O2 sensor for the most part stops working.  Don't worry it is not completely dead, after a tank or two of unleaded premium it will start working again.  However over time lead will slowly kill the O2 sensor. How much time will it take is a good question though.
• Unleaded race gas usually comes in 101 octane but I have seen it as high as 104.
• It is best to buy your race gas any where other than at the track.  Most track prices are much higher than you can get it from a race shop.  In either case you will have to bring a gas can along since very few places allow you to pump it directly into your car.
• When I go to the track I try to drive there with the gas light on so when I get there I can put in my race gas and go!

Tips & suggestions

Listen to the PA for them to call for your class or bracket to the staging lanes.  Then just follow the crowd.  Once you are in line you wait until you get to the front and then the staging lane person will wave you to go up to the actual track.  AWD cars pull around the water box and avoid driving through any water, it's only if you are going to do a burnout.  Then you just follow the track worker's signals.  Don't pull up to the starting line until they wave you up, then go slowly until you trip the very top lights (pre stage) then creep forward until you trip the second set of lights just below (stage).  Then make sure you have it in 1st gear and hold the clutch in and rev it to your desired launch rpm.  For the AWD DSM I would suggest between 4000 and 5000.  Any lower and you'll bog and you don't have to worry about spinning on a stock car. I  used to dump my clutch at 6000 when it was 100% stock.

There will be three yellow lights then the green, they are exactly 1/2 second apart as they flash downwards.  Leave as soon as you see the third yellow, by the time you actually get going it'll be green.  Then just watch you tachometer, and make smooth shifts.  Once you cross the finish just slightly hit the brakes, no more than stopping from 80mph on an off-ramp.  There is plenty of shutdown area so no need to smash the brakes.  Take the return road and stop about 1/2 way back and get your time slip.  Then jump up and down in excitement as you turned a fast time!

If you run slower than a 13.99 you don't need a helmet and you can have a passenger.

Copyright 2000 - 2007

Track links

Southern California

California Speedway Fontana, CA
Los Angeles County Raceway Palmdale, CA
Irwindale Raceway Irwindale, CA

Oregon

Portland International Raceway Portland, OR 1/8 mile, 1/4 mile sometimes.
Woodburn Dragstrip Woodburn, OR 1/4 mile (1320 feet).
Coos Bay International Speedway Coos Bay, OR 1/8 mile (660 feet).
High Desert Motorsports Park Lakeview, OR 1/8 mile (660 feet).
Madras Raceway Park Madras, OR 1/8 mile (660 feet).

Washington

Pacific Raceway Kent, WA 1/4 mile (1320 feet).
Bremerton Raceway Port Orchard, WA 1/4 mile (1320 feet).
Renegade Raceway Yakima, WA 1/4 mile (1320 feet).
Spokane Raceway Park Spokane, WA 1/4 mile (1320 feet).
Evergreen Speedway Monroe, WA 1/8 mile (660 feet).
Bonanza Raceway -Walla Walla, WA. 1/8 mile (660 feet).

Idaho

Firebird Raceway Boise, ID 1/4 mile (1320 feet).

Canada

Mission Raceway B.C., Canada 1/4 mile (1320 feet).

Others

Rocky Mountain Raceway Salt Lake City, UT 1/8 mile (660 feet).