Preparing for a track day.
Also known as a high performance drivers education
By Ron Bauer

For many years I have been having fun on the high speed track.  Below are some of my experiences and wisdom that I have shared on numerous occasions with the variety of car clubs that I have been active in and I hope that it will be informative and inspirational to you and your track experiences to come.

What is a track day?

Track days are put on monthly by several of the marquee car clubs across the country.  I have had the pleasure to participate in Southern California, Portland Oregon, Seattle and Bremerton Washington area, and Colorado .  Just about any where you live there is bound to be someone who hosts an event from time to time, just do a search of the local car club forums and race track web sites. 

These clubs rent the local race track (Southern California: Willow Springs, Buttonwillow Raceway Park & California Speedway Oregon: Portland International Raceway Washington State: SIR / Pacific Raceway, Bremerton Raceway Colorado: Pueblo Motorsports Park, Pikes Peak International Raceway (PPIR), and La Junta Raceway), course workers, and safety crew for the day so that you can practice your driving skills at high speeds. A track day is non-competitive event.  No wheel to wheel racing.  Just a day of fun for learning and experience giving you a chance to see what you and your car can do in a safe environment.

Colorado - High Plains Raceway -  Donate now!

Since you are participating at your own risk there is always the risk of you going off course or hitting another car.  But this is a much safer place to learn to drive than on the public roadways.  So when I say safe, I mean safer then driving 100 MPH down the highway.

Beginners/novice drivers typically begins in the novice run group.  Novice drivers get the option of have an experienced instructor in their car and drive at moderate speeds.  You are encouraged to drive at speeds at which you are comfortable, and learn the 'line'.  The goal is to teach better car control.  You are discouraged from traveling at speeds which could place yourself or your cars in jeopardy.

As your skill level develops you will progress to more experienced run groups.  You will be "signed off" as you progress. Being "signed off" means that your instructor feels confident that you can drive "solo", meaning without an instructor in the car.  Each club is a little different but all of them have experienced instructors that will ride with you if you want and give you tips and pointers on being a better driver.

Typically most have three runs groups; Novice, intermediate, and advance.  Keep in mind the run groups are not based just on experience but a combination of experience and what your car runs.  Even if you are the greatest driver in the world and only do 90 - 100 MPH you could be in the novice run group since the advanced run group can have cars exceeding 150 MPH.  So you can see for safety reasons why you would be in a different run group.

Rules vary with different clubs so it is important to read up on the club/event rules or ask any questions that you may have before getting on the track. Safety is #1.

 How the day works.

Most start out with a safety tech inspections.  Next is usually a drivers meeting covering the days events, safety, and the meaning of the flags.  Some have download meetings after each session to hear how it ran and to correct any problems.

Throughout the rest of the day you will participate in what ever run group you decide to be in.  Each run group will consist of 10-25 cars and run for 20-30 minutes around the track.  The last lap will always be a cool down lap then you pit and wait for your turn again.

Flags and their meanings.

Not all clubs use all of the flags listed, but will explain which flags mean what during the drivers meeting.
Flags are used to communicate to the drivers.  Flags may be used to warn drivers of changing conditions, a problem ahead, a faster car behind or the end of a session.  It is important that you understand the meaning of flags and that you are actively watching for them from the corner workers.  A simple rule of thumb is that a waved flag indicates a more serious problem than a stationary one.

 
GREEN FLAG - The track is open and clear for use.  This flag will be displayed for one lap after the caution flag has been shown.

 
YELLOW FLAG - The caution flag may be displayed for the first lap of each session.  No passing is allowed when the YELLOW is displayed.  If the flag is waved it indicates that there is a problem just ahead.  Slow down, and proceed with caution!

 
RED FLAG - This flag means something is blocking the track.  When red is displayed you must come to a complete controlled stop at the side of the track, then proceed at a "walking" speed to the nearest flagging station, being careful of cars ahead and behind you.  You will be advised by the corner worker when you may proceed.  Stay in your car!!!

 
BLACK FLAG

  Black Open - This flag means there is a problem with your driving and/or car.  Slow down and come into the pits and stop at the start point.  If you are not sure if the black flag is meant for you, it is prudent to come in and check with the pits. If a black flag is shown at all corners slow down and come into the pits.

  Black, Furled - If this Black Flag is pointed at you, it's a WARNING that you broke a rule or drove unsafely.  Don't do it again!

BLACK FLAG / ORANGE BALL - This flag means that the turn workers have noticed a problem with your car.  Proceed around to the pit exit, exit the track and talk to the official at the start/finish about your mechanical problem.

 
BLUE FLAG - This flag means that you are being overtaken by faster cars.  Watch your mirrors.  Signal and allow them to pass at the next passing zone.

  
WHITE FLAG - This flag indicates that there is an ambulance or slow moving vehicle on the track.  Please be on the lookout for it.  If the flag is waved this vehicle is just ahead, slow down.

  
YELLOW FLAG with RED STRIPES - Referred to as the "OIL FLAG", this flag indicates oil or debris on the track, or slippery conditions.  The flag will be waved at the location of the problem.  Caution recommended.

  
CHECKERED FLAG - This flag means the driving session is over.  Slow down and allow your car to cool down.  Exit track at the end of the lap.  You will be advised where this flag will be displayed at the drivers' meeting.  No passing after the checkered flag.

Requirements.

• The car must be in top mechanical shape.  Including alignment, you don't want to be on track with that new suspension kit and not have a fresh good alignment.  If you have bad or worn suspension parts then replace them before hand.
• A SNELL SA/M95 or newer helmet.  Check club rules...
• If you are in a Convertible you need an approved roll bar.  Check club rules...
• Closed toe shoes.  No sandals or birks while in the car.
• Long pants suggested.  Shorts are usually OK though.
• 3 point safety belts like we all have at a minimum.  You don't need a harness but they are nice to have.
• All flying debris must be removed from your car. I.e. floor mats, speaker boxes, anything that is not bolted down.  They will look inside your car as well as the trunk area.
• You must have a battery hold down bracket.  Most came with one.  If your battery can wiggle around then you do not have one.
• Good wheel bearings.  Typically they grab hold of your tire and shake it to see if there is any slop in the wheel bearing.
• Drivers and passenger must be at least 18.
• All fluid to proper levels.
• Radiator overflow tank.  Most came with one, so unless you removed it yours should be there.
• Good tires.  Although I have ran several lapping days on my street tires, I prefer real race tires (better traction and less expensive than street tires in the long run).

Typical event rules.

• Your car must of passed tech inspection or self tech, have a number on it, and have paid your fees before being allowed on the track.
• This is not a competitive event.  Racing will not be tolerated!!!
• No wheel-to-wheel racing in the corners, or past the passing zones.
• Different passing rules for different run groups...  So know which run group you are in and follow those passing rules!
• Know and obey all flags.
• Passing is permitted only in designated zones and only after the passing signal (point by) is received, or if the slower car moves far to the right.  One signal per car passing.  The car passing is responsible for the safety of the pass.  The car being passed stays on line.
• A pass must be completed safely and in time.  No late passing please.
• Slower cars must let faster cars by at the next passing zone.
• If you spin or have two or more wheels off the track you will receive a BLACK FLAG and have to report to an official in the start/finish area.
• This is not a timed event.  Any timing is purely to see how you progress throughout the day.
• No alcoholic beverages of any kind may be consumed by ANY person during the event, or brought to the track.  The use of drugs is strictly prohibited.  Prescription drugs that may cause drowsiness must not be taken.  You are responsible for determining whether you are fit and healthy enough to participate in the rigors of a track event.
• When driving, the driver's side and passenger's side windows must be all the way up, or all of the way down. Sun roofs must be closed or removed.  It's advised to keep the driver's side window all of the way down so you may easily give passing signals.

Recommendations.

• Good brake pads.  I do NOT recommend you using the same brake pads that you use on the street unless you drive extremely conservative.  I don't drive conservative on the track so I recommend using race pads like Carbotech Panthers & XP12/XP10 combo, Porterfield R4 / R4E's, Wilwood or other real race pads.  In other words use a pad designed for what you are doing, use race pads.  I use race pads ONLY at track days.  These do not work well on the street. (Although I have found that the Carbotech line of products does seem to work just fine on the street too!)
• Stock rotors are fine, just know the limits of your brakes.  The bigger the brakes the better... I.e. 13+" brakes and for cars who don't have that you can get kits from TCE Performance Products, Baer, or Stoptech.  Don't waste your money on "bling" such as slotted or cross drilled as they do not serve any purpose for modern brake pads!
• Full front Brake air ducting.  Cooler brakes work better! (C5/C6 only came with air ducting on many models to the wheel well not all the way to the rotors!)  DRM and a few others make some good kits.
• A high heat rates brake fluid like Valvoline Synpower or Motul 600.  Valvoline can be purchased at just about any auto part store.  Motul can be found at many motorcycle shops or online.
• Bleed your brake fluid before the event if you have newer fluid or change it out completely if it is more than a year old.
• Race tires. (Good rated street tires will work, race tires are more fun!)
• Fill the fuel tank in the morning at a gas station close to the track.  You want a full tank at the track.  Also top up at lunch or have at least 5 gallons with you to top up with.  While on the track you will average 7-9 mpg.  Depending on the track and the layout of your tank, you can start sucking air at 1/2 tank.  Also depends on the car.  C4's start to suck air at 1/2 tank.  C5's can get well down below a 1/4 tank and still be fine.
• Have fresh oil in the engine.  Add an extra 1 qt. on C5, maybe 1/2 qt on C6.
• Have tow hooks or know where you can hook a rope or chain if you break down on track.  Nothing like delaying everyone else's day if they can't figure out how to tow you car!
• WATCH your engine oil temperature!  Don't exceed 300F too long or you won't be having much fun!  In the long run if you do this a lot you are going to need an engine oil cooler.  It can be a separate system or one integrated into your radiator. DeWitt makes some wonderful radiators with integrated EOC. Not even the new C6Z06 came with one, so don't think you already have one!

Things to do between sessions.

• Pop the hood and let things cool down.
• Check your oil level and look for leaks.  The high RPM and higher G-forces sloshing the oil over to one side will cause a lot more oil to be blown out the breather and also burned.  Not enough oil in a high G turn is not a good thing...
• Thoroughly inspect your engine compartment.
• Check tires for proper inflation and any signs of excessive wear.  I.e. Big chunks of tread falling out, chords showing anywhere
• Check coolant level when you can.
• Drink lots of fluids as you will have a lot of adrenaline running and don't want to get dehydrated.

Things to bring:

• Sunscreen, as you will be standing in the sun most of the day.
• Lawn chair
• A coat and hat just in case it rains.
• Cooler
• Something to drink & eat. (No glass containers.)
• Gloves on colder days.
• Tire pressure gauge.
• Wheel chalk or shoe polish. (Helps to see if you have enough tire pressure.)
• If you use race gas bring it since you most likely won't be able to buy it at the track.
• 2 qt. extra oil.
• Extra coolant or water.
• Common tools you may need to make any repairs.

Optional items to bring (For the truly prepared):

• Carry a spare brake caliper rebuild kit in case your seals melt on the track (for stock calipers).
• Serpentine belt (Corvette)
• Extra rotors & pads
• Floor jack / jack stands.
• Tarp.
• Extra brake fluid and some thing to bleed the brakes if need be.

Things to do the night before.

• Check tire pressure.  Adjust pressure near maximum tire pressure level.
• Check all fluids.
• Torque wheel lug nuts, although they often check this too.
• Check belts and give the engine compartment a good look over.
• Change to race brake pads.
• Tighten/check all intercooler hose clamps.

Notes about race gas:

Personally on forced induction engines I run a mix of race gas and regular gas.  No real need for it on NA engines unless you are running an extremely high compression ratio.

• Race gas comes in two flavors.  Unleaded and leaded.
• Leaded race gas can be purchased with an octane rating as high as 118+ in some places.  Typically 110 - 114 will suffice.  If you have a catalytic converter on your car DO NOT use leaded race gas.
• If you run a test pipe and use leaded race gas you will notice through out the day your O2 reading will slow down until the O2 sensor for the most part stops working.  Don't worry it is not completely dead, after a tank or two of unleaded premium it will start working again.  However over time lead will slowly kill the O2 sensor.  How much time will it take is a good question though.
• Unleaded race gas usually comes in 101 octane but I have seen it as high as 104.
• It is best to buy your race gas any where other than at the track.  Most track prices are much higher than you can get it from a race shop.  In either case you will have to bring a gas can along since very few places allow you to pump it directly into your car.
• For track days I typically get 6 gallons of leaded 114 octane (Turbo / Supercharged cars with test pipe in), then fill the rest of the tank up with premium unleaded since I will go through the whole tank that day.

Comments, tips and suggestions.

Speeds will vary on the course depending on your setup.  You don't need to be the fastest car out there to have fun!  After all having fun is the goal, this is not a race!

Some clubs allow passengers, some do not.  Check club rules if you want someone to ride along with you.

If you find your self stuck in a herd of cars and someone is not letting cars pass, don't stay in the pack.  Just pull into the pit area and up to the head of the pit lane.  Wait for the re-entry marshal to flag you back out onto the track in a less crowded spot. If you stand in the pits you can watch one of the other sessions, note 10 cars all bunched up and all the big open area around the rest of the track.

On the same note, even if you have 400 hp but find a Miata on your tail for a whole lap, let him by in the passing area.  Just because you can pull on him on the straight passing area does not mean you should ruin his session by getting stuck behind you in the tight twisty stuff.  Then hopefully the same goes for the Porsche that you catch.  There is a big difference between drivers, car preparation and hp levels.  Be courteous, hopefully others will be too.

Watch the gauges, you are not drag racing and you are not driving to work.  You will be on track for 20/30-minute sessions and at wide-open throttle for most of the time.  You will get hotter out there then on the 1/4 mile or on your favorite Sunday drive.

• High EGT, on pump gas generally run 16 PSI Max (Turbo) to keep EGT temp down (Turbo / Supercharged).
• Keep an eye on water & oil temp and oil pressure.  Keep your DIC (C5) on the oil temp.  Don't stray above 300F for long.  In the long run you are going to want an engine oil cooler on whatever car you run.
• If you have a large FMIC (Turbo) and have never been to a lapping day before watch for overheating.  If you start to run hot don't push it as much on the straights and don't run at redline as much if possible.

While on track take it easy at first, there is NO NEED TO:

• Speed shift
• Run the engine to redline (every shift).
• Take it easy on the mechanical and the car will last the event :-)

When braking start out moderately and extend your braking distances, as you become accustom to the speeds and track gradually decrease braking and increase brake pressure.  Listen to your brakes!  If the pedal feels spongy or higher then normal pedal pressure is required then back off for a few laps and let everything cool.  If they seem real bad come into the pits and check it out.

DO NOT use your parking brake in between sessions.  This will cause the rear rotors to warp.

Adjustable shock people, start with a conservative setting on shocks, whatever gives your car under steer, then when accustom to the track and speed you can experiment however you like.

Questions? Feel free to contact me

Various organizers of track events:
Southern California: Speed Ventures, Speed Trial USA, Redline Track Events, Open Track Racing, ACRA, and NASA
Colorado: FAASST Performance Driving School, NASA, SCCA Time Trials, Rocky Mountain BMW Chapter, Rocky Mountain Region PCA, Alpine Mountain Region PCA, and Rocky Mountain Region NCCC
Remember to check the track website as they often have a calendar of all events too...

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